Auto A/C Repair

Most often low refrigerant from a leak, a failed compressor or clutch, or an electrical fault such as a bad pressure switch, relay, or fan. Less often the blend door or control head is at fault, which usually shows up as warm air on one side only or at certain settings. The repair depends entirely on which it is, so diagnosis comes first.

We can, but a system that is low is low for a reason. A recharge alone is temporary and vents refrigerant into the atmosphere while the leak keeps leaking. We would rather find the leak, repair it, and recharge once. If you want the short-term option anyway, we will tell you honestly how long it is likely to last.

A failing compressor usually announces itself: a squeal or grinding when the A/C switches on, a clutch that will not engage, or cooling that quits after a few minutes. A compressor that came apart also sends metal debris through the condenser and expansion valve, which is why we inspect the whole loop before quoting one.

Most vehicles built from the mid-1990s through the mid-2010s use R-134a, and newer vehicles use R-1234yf. The two are not interchangeable and use different service fittings. There is a label under the hood stating which one your vehicle takes, and we confirm it before connecting anything. We service both: R-1234yf takes newer equipment and the refrigerant itself costs more, which shows in the price of that service.

No, and the distinction matters. Cold air with weak flow usually means a clogged cabin air filter, a failing blower motor, or a blocked evaporator rather than a refrigerant issue. Cabin filters load up with dust faster than most maintenance schedules assume, and it is a cheap thing to check first.

Yes, and spring is the right time. A system slightly low in April is the one that quits in July when you need it, and every shop fills up the week the first heat wave lands. A pre-season inspection catches a small leak while it is still small.

Moisture condenses on the evaporator by design, and when it sits in a dark housing it grows mildew. A cabin air filter that has gone too long makes it worse. Replacing the filter and treating the evaporator housing usually clears it, and running the fan without A/C for the last minute of a drive helps it dry out.